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  • Archive for July, 2008

    Korea’s got Seoul


    2008 - 07.31

    I’ve submitted my passport for a new Chinese visa and in the meantime I get to explore another major Asian city. This time, it’s Seoul, the capital of South Korea. The city is gigantic. There’s 23 million people! I’ve got to say first, that I’m really glad to be able to check out this part of the world. Shanghai, Bangkok, Ulaanbaatar and Irkuskt were all great.

    I flew into the Incheon Airport from Beijing for 2,000 RMB (about $320). My friend from the Beijing program, John, met me at the airport and we took the AREX train into town. The airport is on an island so the train goes over some tidal areas that made for a wild landscape.

    After taking care of my visa stuff, John and I hopped the subway to check some places out. The subway in Seoul is huge! There’s at least one station every kilometer in downtown. The trains are huge, too. I’d guess about 150 meters long.

    In downtown there is a stream that cuts through the urban forest. It’s below street level so you must walk down some steps to get right next to the water. The Cheonggye Stream was built to make downtown nicer. It is unlike any urban park I’ve ever been in. By being below street level, as soon as you step into its area all the sounds of the city disappear. You can of course still see all the buildings and there are people everywhere but the only thing you hear is water running. The nature in an urban setting was really nice.

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    The Truth About Beijing


    2008 - 07.29

    Before I head to Seoul in South Korea to try for a new visa, I have to address something that’s been frustrating me lately.

    I’m getting fed up with what I hear from people I’ve talked to in the States about what is really happening in Beijing right now. It seems like American/western media is reporting what the West would like to hear – That Beijing is cracking down and that will make the Olympics lame. Well not really. Here’s some points that I feel like I have to clear up.

    The Culture Ministry has also been busy. A handful of dance clubs and bars have been closed, mostly around Worker’s Stadium.

  • Nightclubs closing – The only two clubs closing (Mix and Vic’s – see “Reviews” page) are forced to close because they are inside the Worker’s Stadium. The Worker’s Stadium is a venue for the Games. Some soccer will be played there. I talked with the manager of Kro’s Nest, a pizza joint located inside the Worker’s Stadium’s north gate. He couldn’t complain about being closed down saying he reaps the benefits the other 11 months of the year. Yes, bars and clubs are told to close now a 2am, right in the middle of the party, but that will keep things under control.
  • “Life-changing new policies” – Only license plates that end in the same odd/even number as the day’s date are allowed to drive. That takes half the cars off the road for two months. Big deal? Athens did it in 2004. Also, you can’t just walk into any old apartment anymore, you have to use a key card to get into your own building. Students must sign into their dorms. Whopdee Doo! I can’t go anywhere on the Syracuse Campus without swiping my ID card. That sure is a crackdown.
  • The air – Yeah it’s really bad. But I bet it will be just fine come Olympic time. China has something up its sleeve.
  • A bar owner in Sanlitun’s embassy district said the crackdown threatened to leave tourists with the impression of Beijing as a boring, culturally dead and uptight city when the opposite was true.

    Oh, don’t worry. There will still be PLENTY of wild parties next month. But there’s no reporting on that, or the other 99% of places that will stay open.

    There’s just too much politics with all this Olympic stuff. I hope it all goes away once the Games actually get going.

    And, oh, by the way, did you hear that three (yes three) new subway lines opened? One even goes to the airport. There’s several new bus routes special for the Games. There are even tourist bus routes on big buses with large windows. Flowers are all over the city and all the streets are spotless.

    What if the Olympics were in New York City or Washington DC? Surely there would be National Guard Soldiers at every landmark or monument. So what’s the big deal with Chinese security everywhere?

    It’s their country, don’t forget, and they can do whatever the hell they want and do it their way. China may look a little like the West, but it sure doesn’t operate that way. That’s the biggest thing Americans don’t understand. I can correctly single Americans out here after talking with Australians and Canadians I’m working with.

    America is petrified of China for many reasons that I won’t go into here. Americans can’t waltz in here and expect to get things done the American way. It’s just not possible. Just try to book a plane ticket online with a local airline.

    It’s too bad because most western media will only be here a month and won’t get a full view of Beijing or China at all. They’ll come in, choke on the smog, criticize the government and its policies and then leave. They will ask why, but won’t accept the answers, like the clubs closing for example.

    China and its government is trying to keep this country under control. Remember, there’s 1.3 billion people here. That’s a lot to keep happy, and the only way for the government to do that is to remain single party and crack down on any dissent. Without a strong hand, the country would fall apart. The worry is that as soon as one person goes (gets fed up with the current situation) the rest of the country will follow. The government can not let that happen, so they’re acting tough this summer. Do we really want China to fall into chaos?

    The Smog


    2008 - 07.17

    Birds Nest Smog

    Everyday on the way to work I walk over a pedestrian bridge crossing the Fourth Ring Road. It has excellent views of the Birds Nest, Water Cube and Pangu Plaza (where I work). Usually it’s pretty smoggy and last week I snapped these two photos to compare the weather. Don’t get me wrong. There are plenty of really nice days in Beijing, but there are plenty of really not-nice days too. (Click, then click again for full size)

    On the banks of Lake Baikal


    2008 - 07.17

    The final stop of our northern Asia tour was Irkutsk and Lake Baikal in Russia. Irkutsk is the biggest city near Baikal, the deepest freshwater lake in the world. It holds something like 15 percent of the world’s fresh water. Mongolia and Russia Trip

    Even though Irkutsk is just north of Mongolia, the east-west change was stark. It was really like we were in a European country. There were lots of white people and the food cost western prices. Things were pretty rundown, but for the most part Russia was nice.

    We took a plane from Ulaanbaatar to Irkutsk and it was empty. The Mongolian Airlines 737-800 was way too big for the number of passengers on board. There were only about 30 people riding on the plane so that meant Wendel and I got about 6 rows to ourselves.

    It took forever to get though customs in the Irkutsk airport. The place is more like a train station that just happens to have a runway behind it instead of train tracks. By the time we started looking for a taxi on the street it was 2:30am. I had the address to our hostel but the driver couldn’t find it. We looked around some stretchy streets for awhile. It didn’t help that our Lonely Planet guide said the area isn’t so good at night. After looking around for awhile we finally found the place.

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    Horse Milk and Douching Part 2


    2008 - 07.11

    A typical Mongolian road: (don’t forget the photo page! And the second one)

    Day 3, 4

    The third day of our trek took us to a hot spring. It was great to get a douche after a few days in the wilderness. The spring was pretty cool. There was a small steaming stream that was super hot – way too hot to get in. Fortunately, there was a small, cool water stream that joined the hot stream just below a bath house. We jumped in where the streams met and arranged rocks to mix the water. When it was our turn to go in the bath house we used big jugs to pour the hot water into the tubs. There were locals doing laundry and bathing.

    Before the day was out we stopped by a big waterfall. It probably was about fifty feet high and poured into a huge hole and canyon in the Orkhon River Valley. That’s where we would spend the next two nights.

    This ger camp was more aimed toward tourists as it had several guest gers for visitors to stay in. That night we learned a great new card game. It’s one I’ve seen several times on the streets of Beijing being played by old guys. To play you have to group suits and numbers and then put them on the table all while trying to get rid of your cards. Every turn you get to put one card down and pick up a new one. There was another driver guy there and we played with him and our driver. We even kept score and had to pay a few hundred Turreg when it was all over.

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    Horse Milk and Douching


    2008 - 07.05

    Mongolia is full of not just Horse Milk, but goat and yak milk, too. We also had some great douching experiences. Douche or dusche, as you know, is French and German for shower. The Mongolians know this term and we silly Americans naturally thought it was hilarious.

    After spending a day in Ulaanbaatar to figure out what was we where going to do, Wendel and I decided to take a five night trek into the Mongolian wilderness/countryside. It’s not really wilderness because people live all over the place, but there is certainly no running water and very little electricity.

    At our guesthouse we met a guy from Iceland named Gunnar. We arranged a trek with Bolod, the guy who runs the guesthouse, that would include tank driving and horseback riding. Remember, to see all the photos check the photo page.

    Day 1

    First we had to buy food for six days. We loaded up our Russian jeep full of all our stuff and food. Our drivers name was Billick. He’s a bad-ass Mongolian dude. It took us a little while to get out of town but soon we were off paved roads and bumping around over dirt and grass.

    Our first stop was a Mongolian Army base. We just drove up to the gate, got out, waited for little while, handed over some cash (only after figuring out how much by speaking German) and waited for our tank to drive out. Waiting outside the walls of the base (that looked just like a base you’d encounter playing some army computer game) we could hear the tank start up. It was really noisy. We paid 25,000 Tourig (like 20 bucks) for 1 kilometer of driving. The army guys said the tank eats five liters of diesel gas per km.

    Out drove the tank and we walked over and hopped on. It wasn’t until the army guys started pointing out the clutch, gears, gas and break did we realize we would actually get behind the wheel of this 40-ton war machine. Gunnar drove first up a hill. Then Wendel and I shared the way back down.

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